I am happy to be sitting safely at a computer as I write this blog entry...our biking adventure down the Bolivian Death Road, or Road of Death, or World´s Most Dangerous road...take your pick!
Now having my kneecap chipped off in a biking accident when I was younger doesn´t exactly make me the most avid biker, so you can imagine the research and planning that brought Doug and I to the top of the Bolivian Andes at 4,700 meters on a rainy Thursday morning - ready for a 6 hour downhill plunge!
After some great references we settled on a company called Downhill Madness, who in our opinion had the safest and most top-of-the-line bikes (Rocky Mountain Bikes - Canadian made...all the better) and equipment, with full head and body gear to prep us for the trip. All geared up, it was hard not to feel confident as we readied ourselves for the Death Road.
Starting high at La Cumbre peak, the steep and bumpy La Paz-to-Coroico road plunges down almost 3,600 meters on its spectacular 64-km path to the lush, sub-tropical Yungas and the sleepy town of Coroico. The narr... occasionally very narrow...track hugs the walls of the sheer valley as it snakes its way beneath waterfalls and rocky overhangs.
At the top, our guides Marc and Roberto distributed our mountain bikes, got us to do a few quick circles to familiarize ourselves with the equipment, gave us some quick words of advice...and we were off.
Though our bikes had 12 gears, Marc directed us to ignore them and "Get into high gear and leave it there." Almost immediately, we were able to appreciate the wisdom of this advice. Pulled by gravity, we flew downhill over the beautifully smooth tarmac. Even riders like myself, who haven't ridden in years, were reaching tear-streaming speeds of almost 70km/hr with virtually no effort at all.
With Marc in front, Roberto behind, and our support crew of Alberto and Phillipe in the minivan & accompanying truck, we felt fully supported and comfortable to go at whatever speed we deemed appropriate. Doug, our friend Mariem, and myself seemed to be among the faster group (Yes Doug, you were first the
entiretime) and so the group naturally divided into those who were comfortable going a bit faster, and those who liked to trail behind....sometimes WAY behind.
At first, we encountered almost no traffic, and for several glorious kilometers, we raced along at what we are sure is top speed. After 15km of effortless downhill gliding, slowing only occasionally to wipe the rain from our eyes and sunglasses, we shot through a tunnel and emerged at the Unduavi checkpoint where the hard part began, two lonnnnng uphill stretches. Marc admited that although fully acclimatized with hundreds of trips under his belt, he still struggles on the climbs. "At over 3,000 meters, there just isn't enough oxygen," he explained... I agreed!
After about 20km, the pavement ended and a gravel track began...the beginning of the World´s Most Dangerous road. Before we began we were careful to take a moment to look out at a gorgeous Valley...or so we were told it was, as our group of 12 stared longingly out at a huge wall of FOG.
Unfortunately the weather was not with us on our chosen day. We were warned that the first two hours would be rainy and cold, but that it would soon clear up to some magnificent views...and heat. Unfortunately not for us. Marc however made us all feel much better as we looked out at nothingness and he said: "
Well in all the time I have been doing this run I have never seen it this bad...hopefully it will clear up further down the mountain."
That turned out to be the first of many such statements. By the fourth hour we had all came to terms with the fact that our day was "special", and only we would ride from tip to valley in miserable weather. It did eventually clear up which was nice...unfortunately not until the ultimate hour. It sure was nice to feel the heat slowly dry up our soaking feet and clothing at the end of the day.
Anyway, as we began the "official" death road part of our trip, Marc gave us some final words of advice on how to survive. He told us that on this section of the road normal Bolivian rules of passing don't apply. Normally, vehicles pass on the left. Not here though. On this section, the vehicle with the driver's seat closest to the edge passes on the left. The reason: the driver on the left can best see how close his tires are to an extremly large death plunge. Mark told us to ride our bikes on the left-hand tire track. This, he claimed, would put us a good meter or so from the edge. "Don't go closer to the edge unless something comes the other way," he told us in all seriousness.
"No way," I thought to myself. "I'm riding on the right, and if anything comes the other way, I'll squeeze up against the rock face." My reasoning seemed sane enough: I can scrape myself off the rock wall, but if anything goes wrong on the left side... it would be curtains!!
The road is bascially a steep downhill run almost the whole way. Travelling on loose gravel made the road significantly more hazardous, and we all made a noticeable change to our speed, taking the turns and narrow sections verrry cautiously.
Countless times I actually thought it fortunate that we had such bad visibility. My resoning;
A) We could not see over the edge of the cliff to the intimidating valley below
and...
B) I would not have been able to see anything anyways, as my focus was so intent on the bike & the path ahead (The glass is always half full with the Vargos)
Even though the weather wasn´t fantastic, we did manage to see some amazing sites and experience some once in a lifetime adventures..ie: riding through waterfalls and over rivers. We all finished feeling exhilarated and proud of ourselves...not to mention intact.
For those of you who have never heard of the World´s Most Dangerous road, and certainly why it is named so...Yungas (it´s official name) is one of the few routes that connects the Amazon Forest region of northern Bolivia, or Yungas, to its capital city. Due to the extreme dropoffs up to 2,000 feet, single-lane width, and lack of guardrails, the road can be extremely dangerous. Further still, rain and fog can make visibility precarious, the road surface muddy, and loosen rocks from the hillsides above. On July 23rd, 1984, a bus veered off the Yungas Road and into a canyon, killing more than 100 passengers in what is said to be Bolivia's worst road accident. It has since been dubbed ¨The World´s most dangerous road¨.
There is now a replacement road for all cars to use which makes the old road much safer and mainly a tourist biking path. There is no denying that this road is dangerous and the stories we heard along the way certainly back that up, however I want to stress to anyone considering doing the trek (and my mother who´s blood pressure I know spiked when she heard we had done it) that it is indeed safe for those who are careful, controlled, and are willing to pay a bit extra for better equipment.
Doug and I enjoyed every minute of the day....as I am sure these photos & videos will attest to. (especially if you forget the rain and fog, and imagine big smiles beneath our helmets!
If you can´t see them properly than click on the link here -
World´s most dangerous road